Panasonic DMC-FX500 Repair: LCD Screen, CCD dust

Need to replace the LCD screen on your Panasonic DMC-FX500? Sure you do. Have dust on the CCD that's showing up in every single picture you take? Durn right you do. Tired of electronics that are made to be disposable? Heck yes! Well now you can fix these vexing problems yourself.

This instructional also shows LCD screen replacement for the DMC-FX500.

After only one month of service, my DMC-FX500 had gotten dust and an eyelash on the surface of the CCD, indicating that the space between the lens and CCD on this camera is not well sealed. Dust on the CCD is most visible by zooming in to full optical zoom (without digital zoom), and pointing the camera at a brightly lit blank wall. The brightness causes the aperture to stop down, increasing the depth of field to include crap on the surface of the CCD.

How hard is this? I'd say, if you like fixing things, and you can be reasonably careful and gentle around small electronics, it's really not all that hard at all. This page looks long, but it's mostly details...take your time, be patient, and notice the landmarks on the camera that will help you place parts.
Please - if this information was in any way helpful to you, drop me a line and let me know - email me at .

  • This information is provided only to show you how I did this.
  • This is not intended to encourage any such behavior on your part.
  • Any repair or modification to these things can be dangerous:
    • Flash capacitors can have a large amount of stored energy which can injure you or your camera.
    • You can turn your camera into a brick. If you do, ebay it for parts.
    • You can damage the quality of your future pictures, and unborn chillun.
  • You will certainly void your warranty.
  • Don't even try this. Go away.
That said, here's what I did!

Preparation and Notes

  • In the following, right and left hand side notations (RHS and LHS) refer to the right and left side of the camera as looking into the lens.
  • IMPORTANT! When removing each screw in the camera, notice carefully how much force is required so that it can be replaced with similar torque. Too little and the component may come loose, too much and the threads on the body component (which is often plastic) can strip. Then yer really screw-ed.
  • Reassembly is in the reverse order of removal. Any special reassembly notes are included in the text in italics.
  • Remove camera strap, battery, and flash memory card. Leave the battery door open.
  • OK. Here's the patient. Sedation looks complete, it's not even moving.(fig 1)

fig 1

Opening the Case

  • Remove 3 screws on the bottom (fig 2).
  • Remove 2 screws on LHS panel (fig 3), lift off LHS panel.
  • Open connector door on RHS panel.(fig 4)
  • Remove 1 screw on RHS panel (fig 5), lift off RHS panel.
  • To remove the silver front case half, it will first need to be loosened: just next to the battery door hinge, there is a small dot indentation on the silver case - insert a small flat-bladed screwdriver in the slot between the dot and the hinge and twist gently sideways (fig 6).
  • Next, pull handgrip on silver front case half on LHS gently away from the body just until loose (fig 7); then pull case edge on top RHS gently away from the body just until loose (fig 8); then pull silver case half up and off.
  • This is the body without the silver front case half (fig 9).
  • Remove the battery cover: pull front end of hinge rod up and free of socket, then pull battery cover and hinge rod out of hole in case towards front of camera (fig 10).
    (When replacing the battery cover, the spring will first need to be threaded into hole in the case while cover is in the fully opened position (fig 11).)
  • Loosen and remove black rear half: first push the black tab on camera RHS slightly towards rear just until loose (fig 12); next pull the black case half away from the body at the top LHS, just until loose (fig 13); next pull at the top RHS, just until loose (fig 14); then lift black case half up and off.
  • Here you can see the flash capacitor, 300V 95uF. These can release enough current to injure a person or the camera. I'd say 'be careful', but remember you're not even supposed to be here in the first place. (fig 15)
  • Pull the flash assembly straight up and off the camera - it may need to be wiggled very slightly side-to-side to disengage one multi-pin electronics connector (fig 16).
    (When replacing the flash assembly, the little metal tab on the assembly under the strap connection point must be on top of the tabs on the body (fig 17), and slight downwards force must be used to engage the electronics connector.)

fig 2
fig 3

fig 4
fig 5

fig 6
fig 7

fig 8
fig 9

fig 10
fig 11

fig 12
fig 13

fig 14
fig 15

fig 16
fig 17

Removing the LCD Screen

  • Remove single screw holding black circuit board down (fig 18).
  • Lift circuit board up and away from body (fig 19).
  • NOTE: One user reports that he can move the LCD screen without disconnecting this circuit board; if that can be done - skip this step (thanks George Marsh!). Disconnect circuit board by pulling flexible printed circuit tab straight out of connector to the right (fig 20).
    (Here's a tip when replacing the connector from eric aka Goodelements: "Plugging the flexible circuit tab back into the connector is much easier if one pulls out that brownish plastic bracket (in front of the white connector, Fig. 20) by 1-2 millimeters. Slide the circuit tab in, then push the bracket back down to fasten the tab.").
  • Push LCD screen gently from left to right to disengage several metal hooks in slots below (fig 21).
  • Lift LCD screen up away from body (fig 22).
  • (NOTE: it is not necessary to remove the LCD screen if cleaning the CCD; it can simply be folded back and placed on the workbench next to camera (fig 23)).
  • If LCD screen is to be removed, disconnect 3 flexible printed circuit board tabs on LCD screen from connectors.

fig 18
fig 19

fig 20
fig 21

fig 22
fig 23

Cleaning the CCD

  • Remove 3 long screws and one short one holding metal backing plate down (fig 24).
  • Lift backing plate away from body (fig 25).
    (NOTE that when replacing this backing plate, the camera body must be lifted off of the work surface slightly to allow the lens assembly to settle in.)
  • The CCD is under the metal plate marked 'E500'. This plate must be removed and replaced carefully; if bent or unevenly replaced the focus of the picture can be compromised at some points on the CCD. Remove the 3 screws EVENLY by loosening one slightly, then the next and the next in a circular fashion. Do this repeatedly until the screws are off. You may also want to keep track of which screw went into which hole for better rematching of the threads (thanks eric). (fig 26).
  • Lift the one side of the CCD plate slightly with tweezers (fig 27).
  • The CCD can be seen here as the rectangular window on the underside of the plate.(fig 28).
  • Clean the CCD by GENTLY blowing air from a can of electronics duster at the surface of the CCD. HEY! I said GENTLY. It's a good idea to first squeeze off a blast of the duster away from the camera so the strength of the blast is known, and no liquid dusting solution is in the neck or tube of the can.
  • Replace the CCD, and tighten the screws again carefully and gradually in a circular pattern. Remember how much force it took to remove them? That's how much force you want to replace them with, all with the same exact torque. If you don't, good luck on ever having an evenly focused picture of your Aunt Tilley again. Ever.

fig 24
fig 25

fig 26
fig 27

fig 28


  • Reassembly is the reverse order of removal.
  • Remember to read the hints in italics.
  • Good luck.

Again, if this information was in any way helpful to you, drop me a line and let me know - email me at . Thanks!

copyright ©bill codding 2002-2010. all rights reserved.